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Different types of Hammers
A wide range of Hammers are available, varying in shape, size and weight. The different styles reflect different uses. Around
the house, the average diy'er only really needs one or two type.
The shape of Hammer heads has not changed much over the years although some modern materials are now used in both the head and
handle. Traditionally handle were made of wood fixed through a hole in the head; this allowed the handle to be easily replaced
if required. Modern hammers use modern materials and the handles are often built into the head - often with a form of built-in
shock absorber to make them easier to use.
Claw Hammer
The most popular hammer for general work, available with a wooden (often hickory), glass-fibre or steel handle; with or without
rubber grip. The most popular weights are 455-680g (16 to 24oz). The claw is normally curved, and incorporates a 'V' cut-out to
draw nails from timber. The claw can be used to lever up floorboards or where other places where a lever is required; care must
be taken (especially with cheaper models) as the force applied can easily weaken the joint between the handle and the head.
Ball Pein
Normally used by engineer's, the pein in this case, is rounded and is
usually used for shaping metal and closing rivets. Ball pein hammers
are available from 55 - 1100 (4 oz up to 2 lb.), 110 - 165g (8oz 12oz)
are the most suitable for general use. Handles are normally wood,
usually Ash or Hickory.
Cross and
Straight Pein
Again, mainly used for shaping metal, the pein can be at right angles
to the handle or parallel with it. The most useful domestically is the
cross pein, where the pein can be used for starting panel pins and
tacks. Handles are normally wood, usually Ash.
Cross Pein Pin
Hammer
A lighter version of the Cross and Straight Pein hammer, ideal for light joinery and cabinet work. Weight 55g (4oz).
Club Hammer
Sometimes called a Lump Hammer, it has a double faced head, and is useful for light demolition work, driving steel chisels and
masonry nails. As debris is likely to fly, the wearing of safety glasses and working gloves is recommended. Weight 1135g (2 1/2
lb) being best suited to domestic work. Handles are normally wood, usually Hickory, or synthetic resin.
Sledge Hammer
Used for the heavier jobs, such as driving in stakes or to break up
concrete, stone or masonry. For lighter jobs just the weight of the
head may be used for blow's, but for heavier work, the hammer is swung
like an axe. Wear suitable protective clothing, including safety
glasses. Weights 7, 10 and 14 lb.
Joiner's
Mallet
Used to drive chisels or to tap wood joints together, where a
metal-faced hammer would cause damage or bruising. Note that the head
is slightly tapered to ensure correct contact with the work. Both the
handle and head are wood, usually Beech or Lignum Vitae.
Soft-faced
Hammers
Various types are available, with hard and soft rubber, plastic or
copper faces. Some come with a choice of faces which are
interchangeable. Useful for striking materials such as chrome wing
outs, where a steel face would cause damage. In some cases, can replace
a mallet for cabinet work.
Special Hammers
From here on, there are specialist hammers developed to meet the needs
of various trades. These include a Brick Hammer for striking a bolster
or splitting bricks; Woodcarving Mallet, with rounded body; Veneer
Hammer, for pressing and tapping veneers into place; Upholsterer's
hammer for driving tacks and nails in confined spaces, and Sprig
Hammer, used by picture frame makers.
Power
Hammers
More often referred to as 'powered nailers', these take the hard work
out of fitting nails, staples etc. They are ideal where a large number
of nails need to be fitted, such as fixing floorboards. They range from
light duty (for use when fixing edge mouldings, picture frames etc) to
heavy duty nailers, used to fix floorboards and garden decking etc.
A wide range of Hammers are available, varying in shape, size and weight. The different styles reflect different uses. Around
the house, the average diy'er only really needs one or two type.
The shape of Hammer heads has not changed much over the years although some modern materials are now used in both the head and
handle. Traditionally handle were made of wood fixed through a hole in the head; this allowed the handle to be easily replaced
if required. Modern hammers use modern materials and the handles are often built into the head - often with a form of built-in
shock absorber to make them easier to use.
Claw Hammer The most popular hammer for general work, available with a wooden (often hickory), glass-fibre or steel handle; with or without
rubber grip. The most popular weights are 455-680g (16 to 24oz). The claw is normally curved, and incorporates a 'V' cut-out to
draw nails from timber. The claw can be used to lever up floorboards or where other places where a lever is required; care must
be taken (especially with cheaper models) as the force applied can easily weaken the joint between the handle and the head.
Ball Pein Normally used by engineer's, the pein in this case, is rounded and is
usually used for shaping metal and closing rivets. Ball pein hammers
are available from 55 - 1100 (4 oz up to 2 lb.), 110 - 165g (8oz 12oz)
are the most suitable for general use. Handles are normally wood,
usually Ash or Hickory.
Cross and Straight Pein
Again, mainly used for shaping metal, the pein can be at right angles
to the handle or parallel with it. The most useful domestically is the
cross pein, where the pein can be used for starting panel pins and
tacks. Handles are normally wood, usually Ash.
Cross Pein Pin Hammer
A lighter version of the Cross and Straight Pein hammer, ideal for light joinery and cabinet work. Weight 55g (4oz).
Club Hammer Sometimes called a Lump Hammer, it has a double faced head, and is useful for light demolition work, driving steel chisels and
masonry nails. As debris is likely to fly, the wearing of safety glasses and working gloves is recommended. Weight 1135g (2 1/2
lb) being best suited to domestic work. Handles are normally wood, usually Hickory, or synthetic resin.
Sledge Hammer Used for the heavier jobs, such as driving in stakes or to break up
concrete, stone or masonry. For lighter jobs just the weight of the
head may be used for blow's, but for heavier work, the hammer is swung
like an axe. Wear suitable protective clothing, including safety
glasses. Weights 7, 10 and 14 lb.
Joiner's Mallet
Used to drive chisels or to tap wood joints together, where a
metal-faced hammer would cause damage or bruising. Note that the head
is slightly tapered to ensure correct contact with the work. Both the
handle and head are wood, usually Beech or Lignum Vitae.
Soft-faced Hammers
Various types are available, with hard and soft rubber, plastic or
copper faces. Some come with a choice of faces which are
interchangeable. Useful for striking materials such as chrome wing
outs, where a steel face would cause damage. In some cases, can replace
a mallet for cabinet work.
Special Hammers
From here on, there are specialist hammers developed to meet the needs
of various trades. These include a Brick Hammer for striking a bolster
or splitting bricks; Woodcarving Mallet, with rounded body; Veneer
Hammer, for pressing and tapping veneers into place; Upholsterer's
hammer for driving tacks and nails in confined spaces, and Sprig
Hammer, used by picture frame makers.
Power Hammers
More often referred to as 'powered nailers', these take the hard work
out of fitting nails, staples etc. They are ideal where a large number
of nails need to be fitted, such as fixing floorboards. They range from
light duty (for use when fixing edge mouldings, picture frames etc) to
heavy duty nailers, used to fix floorboards and garden decking etc.
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